Trip to the Russian North. (2001)

    There is the especial land in Russia. Its name is Russian North. Anybody who was there wants to visit it again and again. Though, it seems, that it is not some unusual here – the north nature bewitches anybody with its unpretentious beauty. I was there many times since 1973 in different places. Unfortunately, there was the large interruption from 1988 till 1997 because of shortage of money and another problems. We went only to Crimea for improving Mike’s health next three years after 1997. And, at last, we went up North again. We went there by car – it was something new in my life. And I was very pleasured with that auto trip and Mike did too. We drove 3790 km totally and Mike drove more than one thousand km.
    We started our trip at midday of Friday, August 3rd. Firstly we went to refuelling station (in Russian it has name “auto-refuelling station”).
    We got the full tank there and filled the additional 10l jerrycan and then the trip had begun. We decided to stay first overnight in the Molochnoe (Milky) near town Vologda. We were passing big town Yaroslavl, several towns and many villages during our way to Vologda, which was about 430km. The most difficult part of that way was to drive through the big towns. You must concentrate all your attention for traffic, observe all road signs and find your way through town. So, we drive about 30 km excess in Yaroslavl and Vologda. I know now that the town’s maps are needed in such case. Firstly, you must learn your future way through the town and then slowly drive through it seeing some beauties and sights there. (Smile)
    The road from Moscow to Vologda is asphalt one and mostly has from two to six stripes for driving totally. The worst part is more than 50km and it is situated in the edge of Vladimir region. Road goes through the hills there and has only two stripes for driving. There are long and enough abrupt rises and slopes there and traffic sometimes is very hard there. If you have caught up the lorry or long vehicle – you can drive after them very long time with its speed. Sometimes it moves no more than 30 km/h, especially at the rises! And when you think that you are able to make overtaking – you see road signs, which forbid doing that, or the very dense contrary traffic. Of course, traffic becomes weaker when Moscow becomes farer. (Smile)
    It was only 3 p.m. when we reached Yaroslavl, therefore we decided to have a meal later in any convenient place. Of course, we lost our way through the Yaroslavl towards road to Vologda, had driven twice at the same place, then we had squeeze our car between the tram rails and the tree which had just fallen on the road and, at last drive across the bridge over the river Volga. It was beautiful view from there but there is forbidden for cars to stop there and we only saw that through our windows. Then we find the road to Vologda very simply. About 200 km remains to drive from there.
    We ate near the town Griazovets (named from dirt), which is in 50 km from Vologda and filled our car with fuel. We had soon come to Vologda. Of course, we lost the way there too and I had to ask for it several people.  We came to Molochnoe near 6 p.m. and had found the hostel. To stay at night there cost $6 for us. It was not the hotel – there was the hostel of farmers’ school (like Natalie’s one) and Natalie made a call there and got the permission for us to stay there at night. We go to bed at 8 p.m. and awaked near two and a half a.m. We started at 3:25 a.m. The long way more than 1300km was waiting for us that day.
    We made some notices about passed distance and bought petrol. Then we had counted expenditure. Average one on 100 km was less than 4.8 l. It was enough good result for a car of such class.  I was the driver this second day all time since 3:25 a.m. until about 8 p.m. and Mike drove only last 15 km. It was like race – speed of our car did not fall less then 100km/h on the free road after sunrise. Straight parts of road we passed with speed from 100 to 120km/h. I think, I could drive with larger speed but car couldn’t go faster. (Smile) You would ask: why do we run so quickly? The answer is very simple – we couldn’t call our relatives there several days before the departure. Therefore we had to arrive there before darkness in order to seek lodging for the night if our relatives would be off. Thank God, they were at home. They couldn’t answer our calls because both of their phones were failed. I repaired them soon after arrival.
    I liked to drive at night.  Though, the speed was not so fast when it was dark but we met only couple of contrary cars until morning. Also we saw some animals’ eyes near the road and we could recognize the hare one time. The fields and forests passed near our windows and rare villages met us with dreamed silent. The road was enough good till village Matveevskaya. Then asphalt ended and began the ground road. We see the construction of new asphalt road here and there.  Road from Vologda to Vytegra will totally be asphalt one next year. I was in those places in 73, 75 with my father and in 79 with my friends. Whole road was the ground one then. It passed through many villages as their main street. Old road had very deep holes where it was possible to hide a lorry. They say that road had logs under gravel. We saw such parts of the road with the logs. It was very bumpy to driving there on our 12” wheels.  New asphalt road is straighter than old one and passes villages to stand aside it. More pleasant part of that road passed along river Kema. We could see the river in the morning fog. The good new road had begun after the bridge across Kema near big village Prokshino and continued till the end of Vologda region. As Leningrad’s region began the good road had ended. It was the worst part of all road from Moscow to Murmansk. Asphalt was only near the villages when road passed through them. Speed there was limited with road signs no more than 40 km/h.  When you had increased speed after the village ended the asphalt had ended too and car jumped as a ball if you didn’t reduce its speed. I was afraid that we would have the square wheels after driving along such road. (Smile) 
    After two hours we reached the ferryboat’s river crossing. There is the place where river Svir falls into Onega Lake and creates the big water area. This area has a name Svirskaya Guba (“Svir’s Lip” in Russian). There we had to wait for an hour before we placed our car on the ferry. The ferry waited for the big ship passed into Onega along the harbor. Then we were permitted to place our car on the ferry. Big cars, buses and lorries are placed along the midline of ferry, but our little car had to place on the plot near the right board. We paid about $1 for tickets and after 5 minutes were on the opposite shore in little town Voznesenie (it is translated as Ascension Day). I want to see that river crossing again sometimes.  Road became the improved ground one there till Karelia Republic. “Improved” means the ground (sometimes logs’) road, which was graveled. I couldn’t drive more than 50 km/h there because the car went on that road as on the ice surface. There was some award for my suffering there – we saw beautiful pine forests and light glades along the road. Sometimes road passed near the Onega shore and we had opportunity to see the lake.  Also we could saw the beautiful wooden constructions in the villages, but we were hurry. I think, I shall visit these places again and I shall drive very slowly then. (Smile). We arrived town Petrozavodsk – the capital of Republic Karelia at 11 a.m. and had lost an hour for seeking the trunk-line to make a call to Natalie. Then our way was to town Medvezhegorsk (Bears’ Mountains) where we planed had a dinner.
     Road doesn’t pass through Medvezhegorsk – it is situated several kilometers aside on the North shore of Onega. There is the service station (fuel), garage (car workshop) and cafÈ near the turn to Medvezhegorsk. We all have meal there including our car (Smile) and continue our trip. There was about 500 km to our aim from there! The road after Medvezhegorsk had some not high rocks on its sides. Those rocks had mentioned to me the Crimea’s ones. They looked as puff pastry. Firs grew on the top of those rocks. The area was becoming plainer further. We arrived to the Zaonezhie (after Onega). Rest part of the road was enough deserted – we saw only the road signs, which showed as distances and directions to towns and villages. We were meeting only forests and swamps by many kilometers. Sometimes road sign appeared, which said that town or village is situated in 15 or 50 km on the left (right) from the road. And I had begun to look any artificial objects near the road instead of natural ones after couple hundreds kilometers of such road. So the big withered fir looked as the belfry and stump near the road converted to hitchhiker. Such road was approximately last 350 – 400 km.  There were many straight and horizontal parts of the road. Such parts had a length more than three km each. I heard some modern legend in 1988 about that road. There were some treaties in that time between USSR an USA about reducing number of airfields for military planes near borders. Gorbachov reduced airfields and constructed the road which can became as good airfields when it would be necessary. I saw the soldiers in uniform of air forces there. They took part in the construction of the road!
    By the way, two years later I become the reserve Navy man, though I never saw the military ship and have a bad seasickness when the waves beat to the board. (Smile) There were the war ruses, I suppose.
Not far from settlement Zelenoborsky (place where lived our relatives) we passed about thirty km of the repairing road. There were much dust in air and gravel under tires. We had to drive slowly and very carefully there. Mike asked me to take steering wheel for him after we passed this part of road. When I got off from car I was felling myself as I got off from a boat. I had driven 1.220 km in that day and was at the steering wheel 16 hours with one half-hour interruption for meal and several short stops for car refueling and another needs. (I heard some people here call such stop as “piss-stop”.) It was enough hard work but I liked it. Of course, I shall not drive so fast next time I shall go there. I want to see more around the road. It is possible when speed of car is not very high. 
    We arrived to Zelenoborsky at 8 p.m. and had met my niece Nadezhda (Hope). She showed us her block of flats and flat. We stayed car near the block of flats under the windows of flat of my relatives. They said that car will be in safety there. We unloaded all our things – rucksacks, fishing tackles, box with food storage, etc from car and put them into flat, which was on the second floor. The forest becomes behind the block of flat. And it was very light outdoor, though it was 9 p.m. yet. We were in hundred km behind the polar circle! If you have a look to the map of Russia – you can see the big narrow bay of White Sea in the North-West corner of Russia. It is called Kandalaksha Bay and town Kandalaksha is situated in the end of that bay. Zelenoborsky is situated near one of the parts (lips) of that bay but on the distance of 50 km southern from Kandalaksha. Its name is from Green forest (“Bor” in Russian). First thing you see when you go to the settlement Zelenoborsky is the dam of the hydroelectric power station. Then road rise into hills and passed the jail (reformatory for offenders, where they had to work and live during their time of punishment). Such reformatories have a name as “colony” or “zone”. The hospital and polyclinic are situated not far from zone. Also there is the bakery, fire command and police station in the settlement. About 18 thousands of inhabitants live in Zelenoborsky and near it now. Some people live in blocks of flats, which have from two to five floors. Another ones live in own houses.
    The part of the Kandalaksha Bay of White Sea is in 2 km on east from settlement. There is the village Kniazhaia (Prince’s) on the opposite shore of the Bay.   The great artificial lake begins at the west edge of settlement. That lake ends with artificial channel from which water gets to power station. After the station’s dam channel soon becomes a part of the Kandalaksha Bay. If you go to the shores of the lake or Bay – you can see many wooden constructions very close to the water there. There are the motorboats garages. You also can see which owner of garage keeps it well and another garage is about destroyed.  If you want to go to the sea and to the lake by boat – you have to have two boats, because you can’t pass boat through the dam. My relatives have only one boat in the lakeshore’s garage. Their garage has two parts – one for the boat and another – the room, which can be used as store and as bedroom too (Smile).
    People here live enough poorly. Some of them don’t earn big money and another ones haven’t any work. The best work here somebody can get at PowerStation and at the local jail (“zone”). There were woodworking fabric and logging areas around settlement several.  But both of them were declared bankrupts several years ago. It was happened because two directors (bosses) couldn’t make agreement. As result – one of them sold timber very far from there, and another boss bought the timber from another place. Of course, such business was not well. People who worked there became unemployed – all of them, exclude the bosses. They had got much money and went to the more warm land – to the central Russia. Some English businessmen organized logging areas and gave work for woodcutters.  But they worked there only two years. Another niece of mine – Alexandra worked as translator and interpreter in their office and could earn some money for her studying. She is studying in Murmansk University for art critic. She was born in 1982 as Mike did. She is the oldest daughter, next daughter Nadezhda is 16 and last child Mike is 11. Their parents are both the doctors – Elena (Helen) works as pediatrician and her husband Nikolay (Nicolas) is an anesthesiologist. Hospital, where they work is go down to bottom. Doctors leave it and go to another places in Russia. My relatives were preparing to remove in town Severomorsk, not far from Murmansk. I haven’t received any letter from them yet, but I think they did replacement.
    Several days after arriving we went to the forest and to the lakeshore and seashore, tried to catch some insects for Mike by means of plastic cups, which were dug into the ground. Also we made some photographs. One day was dedicated to driving into Kandalaksha – nearest town. Elena had there some bothers. Both Mikes went with us too. I was amused with prices of the vegetables and fruits at the local outdoor market – they were a little less then ones in Moscow, though that area is situated far from Polar Circle!
    Nick prepared his motorboat to go to lake for fishing. I paid for petrol for boat and we started at last. There was unforgettable travel. There were the very big waves when we came to the big outer area (it has name “Wide” there). Though we have the raincoats we became wet from flying drops of water. Candy (dog) hided firstly under the bench but soon it went under my raincoat. My trousers were totally wet when we arrived to the place where we stayed for several days. There was the little island that had shape of circle with the horn on its North side.  It has the stone bed with the moss and pines on it. Also there were blueberry and cowberry. The cabin is situated at the highest point of island. There were shed with table and two benches and fireplace with the stony wall around it. That cabin has its master, of course, but anybody can to live in it if master is not there. Two “rooms” are in the cabin – one with the stove and two-floors plank bed and another lets to sit four men around the little table. Each room has one window. “Bedroom’s” one looks to the east and another one – looks to west. Door is situated in south part of cabin.
    We took off all our things from boat to cabin, made the fire and prepared some meal. Also we dried our wet wear on the branches of pines. There were many wooden trunks on the shore of island. All of they were white and dry and haven’t any rind – the good kind of fuel for fire. Another trunks stand on the bottom of lake and only their tops are above water surface. This great water area is artificial lake, which united many lakes, rivers and crooks into the hydro system. Many trees stayed on the bottom when lake was filling with the water and now you can find their dried trunks on the shores of islands. We spent on the island four or five days. That place was enough good for living because there were not many mosquitoes. We made fire in the stove before sleeping and felt ourselves enough comfortably into cabin. It needs to say here that highest temperature at that time (second decade of August) was not more than 14-15 C. North weather has one interesting feature – it can change very fast, such as one in the mountain area.  Fishing there is wonderful, I believe. But if the wind of some direction blows – you never catch any fish. Unfortunately, I forgot wind direction. It seems it was southeast wind.  You can catch north pike, perch, roach, red-finned roach and sig (kind of salmon). We couldn’t catch sig this time – it run away from my hook and we never see it again. I suppose it told about us for all its relatives and they had hidden from us (Smile).  We used two types of tackles – 4-6 meter plastic rod for fishing roach, perch and sig with the light float; and spinning rod with the different spoon-baits for fishing pike and big perch. We went on our boat by oars and stand at the places where Nick showed us. We use the rain worms and eyes of perches as the bait. We fished at the depth from 1,3 to 5 meters. We caught enough perches and roaches to make the triple fish-soup on the first day. It was enough light even at 1 a.m. and we fished till that time all the days. Also we were trolling the pikes. Nick showed me how right to troll and I caught the pike by trolling – first time after 26 years! You must be very careful when you troll there, because of the many snags on the bottom of lake. We had to go by boat to the place where spoon-bait had caught the snag and liberated it several times. There were the flows into the lake and we used they – we went up to some place and began to troll during the boat floated with the flow. We try to cast the spoon-bait closely to snags, which were seen above the water surface and then troll it. Another mean to catch pike or big perch – is “path”. One of the fishermen rows with oars, another ones cast the spoon-bait behind the boat and keep it, sometimes make horizontal wave with spinning rod. Pike often catch the bait during this movement. Of course, oarsman must know how to row. I caught two enough big pikes and several perches such way. That event had place last morning when we returned to my relatives’ home.
    We fishing till the nighttime and then slept into cabin till 10 a. m. Therefore, we missed all morning fishing time. Lake around our island was so beautiful with the blue water, stony islands with pines and firs on they. Some sea gulls swam near our island. Clear and fresh air, blue sky and transparent water of the lake, white clouds on the sky and their reflection on the water surface, sharp branches of the young pines on the background of the sky. I was really glad to be there.  
Last night we decided to spend at the new place in the same cabin. That cabin was situated in the forest on the mainland. During our replacement we fished and trolled. Nikolay set the fishing net at some place he knew. It caught couple of perches and enough big ide. Also we met the group of the tourists on the kayaks there. We visited different places for fishing but fishing wasn’t good. It seems, that wind had wrong direction. But beauty of the wild nature compensated shortage of fishes. At last, we arrived to the little bay where the cabin stood in the forest on the hill. It was not seen from the bay. We come up to it. This cabin was poorer then our previous shelter. But there were table with benches under shed and enough places for sleeping. Fireplace was made from stones too, but it was smaller. Area was hilly there but trees in the forest were higher than ones on the island and there were birches there.
    There were too much mosquitoes there. But in cabin we found mean against them – some kind of aroma substance. You must to set fire it and then its smoke kills mosquitoes. This substance slowly smolders without fire and produces much smoke. So, you breath is a little hard but your dream is quiet. Only the little period of darkness has a day in this season.  The little owl visited us at such time. It sat on the pine branch close to cabin and allowed to make a photo. Then it say “good bye”. When it was enough light for navigation we put our things into boat and went to home. Mike set to sleep at the rear part of boat, Nikolay rowed by oars at the head of boat and I trolled in the middle. We were going about three hours such way and I caught two or three pikes and four big perches! It was the great feeling when pike catches spoon-bait and you feel that strike. Then you and your opponent fight and you win it, at last. Then our fishing was ended at the next island. We landed there (stayed Mike to sleep in the boat) and started to seek for mushrooms for salting. We could find enough white milk mushrooms to filled the 5l bucket. Our relatives salted them later and gave them to us – it was a 3l glass jar of salted milk mushrooms. I saw the big stone on the island, which was broken in two by pine that grew through it. The tree itself was disfigured into the stone but it had the beautiful top. The weather was fine and Mike continued to sleep when we returned to boat. Light wind blew and there were some white clouds in the sky but we could see the sun. We went by engine from that place. But weather became worse when we reached the “Wide”. Wind had become strong, low grey clouds filled the sky and fog lowered from them towards the water surface. Waves were enough large and I was a little afraid. Drops of the water tore away from waves’ tops and flied into the boat. But all around were so beautiful. Soon we passed “Wide” and were on the way home. It was unforgettable voyage.
    The main dish on the table after our return were the fishcakes made from pikes we had caught. Here I can give the recipe of those fishcakes. Add the milk powder into mixture of grinded fillet from pike and grinded potatoes. Add the grinded onion and melted cow’s butter (it must be a little warm). Add salt and spices. Mix this paste carefully. Then make fishcakes and fry them into pan. Amount of ingredients: pike’s fillet – 1kg, 1 big potato, 1 big onion, 1 dessert spoon of butter, 2 table spoons of milk powder. Try to make such fishcakes – and, I hope, you will like them.
    Next day after returning we slept till 1 p. m. and then had a walk into forest and set the snares for insects – Mike’s University task. I supposed, that insects’ snare is a complex thing. But it was very simple one – only the plastic cup (100ml, for cool drinks). You fill it on a half with the mixture of water and acetone (or spirit), dig the hole in ground and put the glass there. Its edges must be at the level of ground surface. At last, you must put the wrapped plastic film above the top of glass such way that it will be free space between the edge of glass and a film. You can extract insects after 24 hours. Forests consist mostly from firs there and you feel the thick moss carpet under your feet. There are mane big stones here and there in the forest and those stones covered by moss too.  There were many bilberry-bushes with mature berries on the moss only twenty steps from block of flats! But people gather berries there only for sale, not for their own stores. Several points are situated in settlement where you can sale gathered berries. Most popular berry is cloudberry there.  Businessmen export it to the Scandinavian countries. When the season of this berry is ending you can sell it for $3 per 1kg. There is considered as good money there. Many people gather different berries for selling.     We went for blueberry next morning – firstly as process and after that for storage (Smile). We went through the nearest forest, opening cutting in forest with the electric power line, crossed the Murmansk highway and after a forty minutes’ hiking came to the foot of the big hill (or little mountain). There was the forest lake there with the firs around it. The slope of mountain began at its shore and there were very many blueberries on that slope. It seemed black  from berries somewhere.
    Family, which had come there immediately after us went further, stayed this “fight field” for us. Mike and I gathered the berries by hands, but Nikolay used some tool, kind of the scoop. When I asked him if this tool damages the berries bushes – he answered that person must uses the right technology of gathering and there will not be any damage for nature. I had a look how he was using the scoop and saw that he was right. During Nikolay gathered one bucket – both Mike and I could gather only about a half of the same bucket. He helped us to gather more and then we went up on the hill and saw the panorama of Kandalaksha bay.
    Day was sunny and warm and clouds on the sky were clear white color. There were seen Khibiny Mountains at the horizon far behind Kandalaksha Bay. Bay itself is very indented with many coves in it. The shores of it are stony with the pines’ and firs’ forests on it. And it is too much moss under your foot when you go through those forests. Moss and lichen are anywhere – on the ground, on the big stones, on the trunks of trees as fallen as living ones. You can find some grass only near the swamp or another water source. It is hard to find water when you rise on hills but a berry grows in those forests, which may help you to slake. It has name “Voronika” from Russian word “raven”, also this word from name of dark black color (“voronoi” – the black color of a horse). This berry is not sweet, but it has much water inside. You must put ten or more berries into mouth and press them. The water from berries is enough for slaking.
    We had admired the scenery and started way home. We went down from hills to the seashore through the forest. There was the wide stripe of sand on the shore with big stones. We found the little river, which flowed into sea and drink water straight from it. Water was very cold, transparent and tasty. On the opposite shore we saw the settlement of ichthyologists with the science section in it. After river we had came to path, which run along the sea. We followed that path and soon had come to the asphalt road, which run among summer cottages those were situated on the hills near the sea. I saw very interesting building, which was like the little castle with the towers and spires. It was made from brick. I asked Nikolay is this house of the rich man? And he answered that that house is property of his colleague – the driver of the ambulance car (“speed aid” in Russian = “emergency first aid” in English, I suppose). That man (his name Vladimir) has the brother who works as architect in St. Petersburg and he often visits Vladimir at summer time. Vladimir built the little summerhouse by his own hands several years ago and then brother advised him to make the tower and made the chart and plan of it. During the each architect’s visit house was becoming large and large and, at last, transformed into real little castle. I would never build such house by myself.
    We went through the summer cottages, crossed the highway, went through the forest and soon were home. Helen made the jam from gathered bilberry. It is need to say that North people know very well how to make storages from nature’s gifts. We brought home to Moscow 5l of those jam and it was eaten in a couple of weeks in December. It was very good jam!
    Next day Mike and I had a walk into forest and set the new insect’s snares there and made some photos into forest. There was not any unusual at that day. Also we knew that tomorrow we start to the sea fishing – to catch the White Sea herring and cod. Nikolay entertained us with that herring – slightly salted one. White bread with butter and lumps of herring on it and sweet tea – you would never refuse from such treat. Nikolay prepared the tackles that evening and we had seen that. The tackle for fishing cod and herring is the short spinning with usual reel with the 1mm fishing line. The hard steel or led cylinder is tied on the end of that fishing line. First hook is tied 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) above cylinder on the thinner fishing line and its length is 3-5 cm (1-2 inches). Another hooks are tied 5-10 cm (2-4 inches) above previous one. The experienced fishermen ties till 20 hooks, but we used no more than 10 ones. Hooks are one of the biggest sizes and must be white or bright yellow color.
You don’t need to put any bite on the hooks firstly. Technique of the fishing is very simple – fishermen drop the anchor in the middle part of the bay during the flood beginning. Then they cast fishing line into water, wait for end cylinder reaches the bottom and then rise slowly and sink quickly the spinning. When fisherman feels that fish catches the hook he makes the abrupt strike and troll the fishing line by reel. During the shoal of herrings comes you can catch till 5-10 fishes at one time! When you have caught the cod you may put its eyes on the hooks – your fishing will be more successfully then.
    Weather was not good when we went to Kandalaksha Bay next morning. Hard gray clouds run low above the bay surface and rain was not so far. The fog stood on the hills’ slopes among the trunks of trees. We drove by our car to one of the boat’s garages and became to prepare the boat. There is the winch into garage – boat is launched and returned into garage with its help. Two logs set under the boat’s door and boat slides along them. Some people made the little wheels on those stocks for better sliding. There was the middle of ebb when we were launching the boat and it was enough hard work to do that. Then we went to the middle of the bay by oars – Nikolay did that work. We set anchor there and cast our tackles. We had to wait for a long time to catch first herring. We changed places and tried fishing again. At last, Nikolay pulled first little herring – it was not more than 4 inches. I caught two ones soon. Mike was not so lucky and he was sitting without fish. Flow had become and we saw white whales, which came there with the same aim as we did – to catch fish. Unfortunately they were too far from us and we could see only their white backs, which appeared and disappeared on the sea surface. Rain became hard after long drizzling and Mike decided that he needed to go home. I drove him and returned to Nikolay and we continued fishing. Soon the big waves had appeared near us – there was the battle between the sea flow and river’s one.  Our anchor couldn’t keep the boat and we went to those big waves. It was very hard to escape from there. But we could find better place for fishing and caught about fifteen herrings. Then fish run away and we moved nearer to the shore and stood at the old broken moorage. I caught three little cods there. Rain ended and weather had become a little better. I saw the sail far from us and started to make photo. I did several ones because I thought that it didn’t come closely to us but it was coming straight towards our boat and turned at the last moment. It was the kind of the North boat – it seems that it has name “koch”. And it was splendid to watch as sail was coming nearer and nearer to us. I wanted to stay there some more time but Nikolay said that we must return because we wouldn’t to put the boat into garage if the level of sea would too lower. He was right and we spent much time doing that work. We drive home when it was dark yet. Though the weather was bad I was very happy to have such day.
Our staying in Zelenoborsky run to its end and next day we inspected Mike’s snares together with the forest walk; were packing our luggage; were buying some food storage for trip. Also we made a photo of our relatives’ family. But Nikolay was invited for ill child that evening and returned home only next morning when we were ready to start our way home. We said good-bye and went away from Zelenoborsky. We turned a little back for making photo of power hydroelectric station and then drove home. Start of the day was sunny and warm and road run away under our wheels. We were soon at   the border between the Murmansk region and Karelia Republic. Than Mike started to drive and he drive almost for place where we would have the night rest. That place was a hostel of the another farmers’ school near the capital of Karelia – city Petrozavodsk. Settlement has name “New Vilga”. Also we checked how much our car eats the fuel. We fill full tank when we started from Zelenoborsky and drive until the fuel level’s lamp became lights constantly.  When we counted kilometres and eaten fuel it was found that car eats about 4, 3l per each 100km. It was excellent result. When we were at the fuel station we saw a little accident when two same cars knocked side by side. Thank God, people didn’t suffer. But I drove further and Mike decided to have a rest. (Smile)
When we were coming to fuel station we had a stop of engine and the battery lamp had lighted. We started ignition again and continued driving. Such trouble had place two or three times before we arrived to New Vilga. We could to find the cause of that trouble – the plastic safety-fuse had become shorter from heated and contact was not good sometimes, especially if car jumped on the holes on the road surface. We changed safety-fuse and hadn’t any problem until we returned home.
We got the room into absolutely empty hostel – we were single in all building. We prepared supper and also did the morning meal because we decided to start at night and arrive home in the same day. It was about 1400km from New Vilga to home. We also decided to go around the “Svir’s lip” and wouldn’t wait for ferry. It cost us more two hundred kilometers. We waked up when night was in it middle, have some meal with strong sweet coffee and started at 1:30 a.m. Once more I liked the night driving – it is some charm to drive in deep dark with light from lamps of rare contrary cars. You feel that you single at the road and all it belongs to you. Of course, you can’t drive with the high speed as you do at the daytime.  I drove until it was becoming lighter and then we changed with Mike after we spent about 40 minutes for seeking the road from town “Lodeynoe pole” (field of boats).
There was the cloudy weather that morning and we watched splendid sunrise’s colors – sky flamed over the forest and clouds changed their tones from red to grey. We stopped several times to make some photos. We were so exited that passed the needed turn and drive about 20km along the timber road until we reached the post where we were said that we drive wrong way. Mike was near to drop car from road there and we need to push it from bushes, which grew on the slope of road under the drizzle rain. The postman watched for our attempt with the great interest from his carriage. I hope we gave him some entertainment in his dull life. (Smile)
   We returned on the right way and were flying low above the road (smile). Sometimes we admired views around road and made photos but our aim was to reach home sooner. We were there at 9:30 p.m. The Great Trip To Russian North was ended.