My vacations came, at last. I was
going to spend two weeks at Murmansk region and Karelia. Firstly I was
going to have fishing at the lakes with my cousin's husband Nikolay and
his friends. Then I planed to go to Karelia - trolling pikes and have some
car trips along Karelia, include visiting waterfall Kivach and spa
Martsialnye Vody. Though I had only two weeks for vacations I had got
great amount of adventures, I had never previously.
I started my trip on Friday 12, September. I prepared
to reach Murmansk, met Nikolay there and returned with him to settlement
Zelenoborsky - initial point of boat trip to lakes. I planed two rests
during my way to Murmansk.
Part 1. Way towards North
I started from my job at 10 a.m. I
must to drive into Sergiev Posad town to take some materials and CD with
photos I made in Slovenia to my colleague. I had to turn off from highway
Moscow - Yaroslavl during visiting Sergiev Posad and I had to leave town
along the local road (pic
1). Firstly I planned to drive along the North-West direction but
suddenly I decided to drive through the next towns Yaroslavl - Vologda -
Vytegra - Lodeinoe Pole. That decision was from some kind of nostalgic
mood - I like this road though it is longer that North-West
direction.
There was some part of narrow and hilly road from Moscow
region border to Pereslavl town. I was lucky - there were not heavy and
slow following lorries on the road and I could keep enough speed. I bought
some red and yellow onions near Pereslavl town as usual. That onion is
sold at each settlement or village near highway. I reached Rostov town
soon and road there became wide - it had two stripes in each direction. I
increased speed of my car and "flied" along the almost empty
road. My "flight" was not so long - it had ended at the road
police "ambush" where I was stopped by policeman. Speed was
about 120 km/h and another policeman invoiced penalty.
I got lost my way in Yaroslavl. I make this each time I
visit that town. I turned wrong way and drove about six kilometers before
I understood that. I corrected my mistake and was at the bridge across
Volga soon. There was the beautiful view from that bridge and I was pity
that I hadn't opportunity to stop there and make some photos.
At last, I passed Yaroslavl and car run through the
fields and forests. I stopped at the bus stop and take fellow traveler. He
went to gather mushroom and told me about great amount of the best
mushrooms in the forest this year. He even was late to bus gatering only
the best mushrooms. He went out near Griazovets town.
I was in Vologda during the sunset (pic
2) and passed town along the around road and then turn on the road
Vologda - Vytegra. I usually drive this way each time since 2001. Parts of
road with asphalt become more and more each year. I had to drive along
metal road only several kilometers this time.
I like next part of this road - from Vytegra to
Podporozhie. It is real metal (ground) road. I like to drive here at the
night time. Wide night road, black walls of the forest at both
sides, cars meet rare here . You cannot drive there fast, especially
at the night. Turnings, hills, stones, which appear suddenly just in front
of the car. You fell yourself derelict, far from urban civilization.
Sometimes you see shine eyes of unknown animals near road edges, bright
star or moon, which appears and disappears amongst the top of trees, rare
villages meet you with dim lights and headlights of your car reflect into
windows of sleepy houses...
Metal road ended in Leningrad region at the turn to
Voznesenie's ferry. My car run faster there on the asphalt road and soon I
reached town Lodeinoe Pole. Bridge across river Svir' was not repaired and
looked like it was bombed by artillery. Rain became near Olonets town,
many cars met on the road and light of their headlights glittered on
the drops on the frontal window. Several hours passed and I turned to the
road to Girvas. There are many beautiful places along that road, but there
was too dark to look them. I only stopped at one of the lakes to have a
look on the wet sunrise above the blue water (pic
3).
I was at Girvas at quarter to eight a.m. I had a
four-hour rest here and then started my way again. I passed town Medvezhegorsk (pic 4)
at 2 p.m. Several big tractors with construction machines passed me when I
stopped to drink coffee (pic 5).
They occupied all road and were leaded by car of road police. Then I spent
long time to try overtaking them. Rain started from time to time, sky was
cloudy. Weather became better at Murmansk region and I could look the
beauties of evening lake and yellow-green forest (pic
6) and paints of the evening sky. I was at Zelenoborsky at nine p.m.
I stayed with Nikolay's mother and she said me at the
morning that both of outboards engines were stolen from boat garage. Then
she said that Nikolay has many friends here and they will help him. I
didn't know then that loss of engines would start my adventures. Nikolay
called at the midday and said that I can drive to Murmansk and he would
wait for me at the railway station. I started at 1 p.m. and had to drive
about 300km.
Firstly I reached Kandalaksha town where filled my car
with petrol and started new route. Rain began at once as I left
Kandalaksha behind. Rain was changing from downpour to drizzling rain and
it accompanied me till Murmansk. Road became slippery and sometimes my car
lost road and I had to reduce speed. I was deprived opportunity to watch
landscapes I passed due to those circumstances.
Soon Khibiny Mountains began. Road run up and down and
had three stripes - one for lowering and another two for raising. I
discovered there one phenomenon for myself. Previously I only heard about
it from experienced drivers. You drive along the road and all your feels
say that road lowers or, at least, doesn't lower. But car engine works
very hard and road run up in fact! Firstly I thought about troubles with
engine but remembered about phenomenon. Another time I lost into shroud of
rain and entangled oncoming stripe with my own. I surprised a little why
road had one stripe for raising and two ones for lowering. Fortunately, I
understood my mistake soon and return to right stripe.
When rain became quiet I could look the splendid views
around road. Though gray tints prevailed and all around seemed gray - dark
and white clouds puffed up above mountains was wonderful. Sometimes I saw
the led color of cold lakes and yellow spots of autumn forest.
Then rain started to fall again and I could see only a part of road in
front of my car.
Mountains' passes ended, at last and I reached town
Monchegorsk. I saw there strange landscape which was like recently
fire-site. There were enough large plots of such black ground there. I
passed turn to Laplandia and signs to villages became to meet more often.
Soon I reached Murmansk outskirts. I passed first turn to Murmansk and
stopped near second one where I ask another driver about my further way.
Driver started to tell me all road to railway station and I lost "Ariadne's thread"
after fourth turn. Driver promised to lead me some part of way but his
engine had broken and I had to drive further alone.
Murmansk is situated as narrow stripe between hills,
which are covered with forest. It consists from blocks of buildings and
has enough hard traffic. When I placed my car and asked a woman about way
to railway station she told me how to reach it by trolleybus. And I
continued my way along the trolleybus' wires. The best explanation was got
from driver. I drove exactly to station and... passed it by. There wasn't
any inscription on the front wall of station.
I was late an hour and Nikolay had to wait for me at
the railway station. He had rucksack and his dog with him. Because we had
to drive back I couldn't to look at sights. We visited a couple of groceries
to buy some food and started back. I lost my way in town as usual
and had to spend some time to stand on right way. I made only one photo in
Murmansk when we went away from it (pic
7).
Weather was better at the way back. Sun shined through
the clouds and little birches at the road were flashing with autumn gold (pic
8). We can see yellow-green hills and heavy clouds above far Khibiny
mountains. We had many stops and used them for making some photographs (pic
9) giving the rest for Nikolay's dog who quickly got tired with
travelling into car.
I saw again the terrible black ground near Monchegorsk
town (pic
10). I also had seen white and blue smokes above red chimney-stalks
far from road. Nikolay told me that colors of smokes were also orange, red
and green formerly. Poison clouds lowered from Khibny mountains
sometimes and killed all plants on their way. Swedish absorbers were
set several years ago and only two colors of smokes had left then. And
life is returning with little crooked pines on the poisoned land.
Heavy white-gray clouds crawled along mountains and
crossed above highway ahead (pic
11). Cars drove with turned on headlights. Then got dark and I could
see only road and light of the cars drove towards me. We drove several
hours un the dark and then reached Zelenoborsky. We had several stops and
I made that photo (pic
12) of moon path on the black water of bay.
Part 2. Adventures are beginning.
We prepared to boat trip to
the lakes all next day after returning from Murmansk. Nikolay did all
businesses and I was his personal driver. There were too many different
things to do and we drove many kilometers. Also we untwined fish nets near
boat garages at the evening. It seems, those nets stay at the boat
garage.
Lake near Zelenoborsky is a last part of water reservoir
ahead of the power station
(pic 1). Its banks are
densely filled with boat garages, which look like wooden sheds (pic
2) Slide rails for boat launching occupy most part of such
garage. Those slide rails continue straight into lake. Winch is used for
launch and dragging boat. There are a couple of rooms in the garage too.
They keep nets, baskets and another things in store. Another room has a
place for table, some kind of sofa and chairs.
We started four together with one dog by two boats.
Evgeniy and Vladimir - both friends of Nikolay. We spent whole morning
preparing boats and buying food for our trip. At last, all was done and we
allotted to boats. I hadn't any experience and sat in one boat with
Vladimir. Evgeniy and Nikolay sat to another one. It seemed that we could
start but something was wrong with engine of another boat. Vladimir had to
move to another boat and helped. I spent that time rowed and was not
allowing boat to reach a bank with underwater stones. This fighting was
continuing about forty minutes. Thank havens, their efforts were rewarded
and we could start our voyage. We left lake, went through channel between
some cliffs, passed under railway bridge and were soon at the lakes
expanses.
There was strong wind there and it could prevent our
attempts to reach place. They say that lakes' waves is more dangerous than
sea ones. Many peoples paid with their lives for neglected wind and
weather condition on the lakes. But wind was not so strong that time and
we continued our way. I suppose that someone who didn't know about danger
didn't forget it. Therefore I looked around with great interesting and
brushed away drops bringing with ordinary wave from my face and tried to
make some photos (pic
3, pic
4). Another boat chose way through the Dogs' gangway
(pic 5) Our boat continued
to move across the lake. Then we had to returned a little back where we
find our friends on the bank. Steer rope had broken in their boat. Boat
came to us from lake during our attempts to repair rope. There were three
people - one from St. Petersburg and two from Zelenoborsky. They gave
metal pipe for repairing and we did repair (pic
6). We presented some gas to them, made group photo (pic
7) and continued our trip. But I was in the repaired boat with Nikolay
now.
We were at another great space soon. There were strong
wind and high waves there. Our boats run along the way chose by captains.
I seemed that engine of another boat faded out. I had just said to Nikolay
about that but he darted from head to stern of the boat. Steer rope broke
another time. And we were too close for sinking. I suppose I can write
down this notices thanks to Nikolay and his great experience.
Due to boat left almost without ruling and Nikolay
decided to go along the banks where wind and waves weren't too strong. We
lost another boat and reach some gangway soon. It was quiet there but we
lost right way. Water was low that time and it was hard to orientate.
Evening was close and we decided to spend night on the one of islands
there and would continue our trip at the morning. Underwater log tore off screw propeller
and we had to row. We had enough time to prepare night's lodging and I amazed
with beauties around (pic
8, pic
9).
We chose one of islands and hided from wind behind its
high bank. We could see how lower was level of water. Carpet of moss ended
on the 2 meters height above water level (pic
10). There were too many withered white logs on the bank and we needed
in fire because we got wet on the lake. I only then remembered that left
my rucksack in another boat. So, I was without sleeping-bag, warm
wear and ethyl alcohol. We only had bread, tea, salted red fish (salmon)
and a few vodka. Salmon was bought by Evgeniy in Murmansk. We dried near
fire (pic
11), had a meal and lay into boat bottom. Nikolay was accustomed to
such sleeping. Besides he had a warm dog near. I could slept only an hour
and a half and then had frozen. I had to get off from boat made a fire (pic
12), prepared warm place near fire with stone wall and firs'
branches.
At last, I settled in my "nest" and put a couple
of logs into fire. Then stones were heated and teakettle boiled. I drank
hot tea and lay between fire and stone "wall", which protected
me against wind from lake. It was warmer there than in boat but while fire
was burning. Withered wood gave much heat but burned out fast. When fire
died out I awoke up from cold and went along bank seeking logs. During one
of such "walks" I had seen strange clouds in the sky - they were
milky-white and very bright and changed their shape very quickly. And only
they began to melt I had understood that I observe North lights. I saw it
first time. I read about it and imagined it another way - polar night,
frost, colored "curtains" and "singing" sky. I
observed those clouds amazed with their various shapes and moving. I tried
to made photos, of course, but I could see only black field with points of
stars. Though color was only milky-white but I froze from their beauty and
fantastical swaying. I could observe "curtains" and "spiral
galaxies", "arrows" threw from zenith to all sides of
horizon. Especially I remembered fist with "forefinger", which
point to North-West.
But next day would promise to be hard and I settled at
the fire again. Of course, I was slightly pitied. Night was calm and only
one thing happened then - fire sparkle burned through my wind-jacket
sleeve. Dawn became and we began to continue our trip. Nikolay repaired
propeller at the evening but steer rope broken in front part of boat and
we hadn't any opportunity to repair it again. Thank heavens, wind was not
so strong as yesterday and we could see all underwater logs and tops of
stones from large distance. Nikolay started engine and we were at
the expanse soon. We could find our location and defined direction to our
target. But gas ended immediately after that event. We rowed seven hours changed
one another and fought against wind and waves. I get tired with such unusual
job and got a blood corn on the left palm. But there were so beauty around
with blue water, sky and far banks (pic
13).
We had seen another boat after seven
hours. There were Vladimir and Evgeniy in the boat. Our meeting was glad
because our friends considered that we sank and we feared the same too.
They said us what they did after we lost. They reached cabin where planed
to meet us and then started to find our boat. Vladimir fell from boat
during that "rescue party" and Evgeniy saved him with great
difficulty. Then they asked us how we could expend forty liters of
gas. Nikolay answered that we had gas only into petrol tank. I was very surprised
when Vladimir show us the reserve 20-litres tank which was under the rear
bank of boat. I was sitting there a half of time! It was fine - had twenty
litters of gas and rowed seven hours instead a half of hour going by engine.
We went to one of bays and came into cabin (pic
14) soon. Vladimir and Nikolay started
to set fish nets and Evgeniy and I prepared supper and sat a little on the
bank admiring quiet water (pic
15) and sunset above the forest (pic
16). We slept on the self-made plank bed in the cabin, which was heated by stove. It was very comfortable
to sleep there after night near fire. And three days would be ahead -
three days of joy.
Part 3. Adventures are continuing.
Though yesterday subset was yellow (pic
1) next morning became with gray clouds and wind. Nikolay and Vladimir
were going to chek nets and then started to gather some cowberries far
from cabin. Evgeniy was going to stay near cabin (pic
2) and then to gather some cranberries at the nearest swamps. Then I
got one boat and prepared my spinning for trolling. Nikolay got me to
another lake where he went to Vladimir's boat and I began to troll. I
rowed against wind along the lake and then allowed wind to carry my boat
during I trolled. Nikolay and Vladimir finished to check nets near.
Suddenly I remembered that my camera stayed at cabin. Nikolay told me and
showed direction to cabin from his boat. To go there by feet would not
long but if I started there by rowing on boat it demanded an hour and a
half. Then fellows left me alone. As day was gray with heavy clouds I
didn't started at once and continued to troll. I didn't catch any pike and
when sun appeared from clouds I decided to start. I tied boat to stump and
pressed rope with stones and started to short way. I didn't know that way
wouldn't be short then. Usually I take compass with me but that time it
stayed at home. I just forget it there. I passed little swamp and had seen
the bushes with with red cowberries (pic
3). There was not good harvest of berries that autumn and I couldn't
pass those berries without tasting them. I went from one bush to another
and had gone from right way. I passed another little swamp and found five
mushrooms, which called redhead. I put them into my cap. I reached hill
soon. As said Nikolay cabin must be behind that hill. I rose on the hill
and went a little forward. I couldn't understand in which side was cabin.
Forest there was dark and dense. I started to make serifs on the firs by
knife. Then I understood that it would be better to return back and I
started to go from one serif to another. When I couldn't find next serif I
decided to go down from hill towards open water I had seen through the
forest. I was near lake soon. Lake was the same as I left and far
mountains were like too. But I couldn't find boat there. So, I looked
around and went through the one of capes. When I crossed it I discovered
large bay. I clear remembered that I never was there. Sun suddenly
appeared for a couple of minutes and I understood that I had lost my way
and couldn't find right way by myself. It was first time in my life!
Remembered rules I decided to go to the open place on
the shore and wait for help there. I noticed that shore is not wild there.
I find old fire and rusty tins on the shore and another traces of human
activity. There also were ruins of another cabin not far from place I
stopped. But if I was going to be found I must help my friends or another
people to do this. I haven't matches and couldn't set fire. I
decided to rise the "flag of disaster". I found thin and long
trunk, took off my white T-shirt and tied it on the top of trunk. Then I
set trunk at the cape and strengthened its bottom with stones. T-shirt
waved firstly but rain had soon begun and T-shirt had stuck to trunk.
My wear was a little warmer than one during the recent night lodging at
the island and I couldn't to set fire too. I risked to spend terrible
night without fire at the shore of cold lake. I haven't another
opportunity besides making some kind of shelter, which saved me from rain.
I also hadn't any meal besides my five mushrooms and berries growing
around. So, I started to make shelter of branches. All tools I had were
knife and my two hands. I made base of shelter from thin trunks and was
looking around to seek where it would be better to break fir's branches.
Then I heard sound of boat engine and went on the cape. Vladimir came in
his boat. He had seen my "flag" and came to me. It was
"happy end". I passed the cabin and went further along the same
shore. Then we returned to Nikolay who waited for us at my boat. We had a
mushroom soup from redheads for supper. Then we had evening tea with smoke (pic
4). There was not too much fish and fellows couldn't gather much
berries.
Fellows started to check nets and gather
cranberries at the morning and I went for my new adventures on another
boat. Weather was again cloudy and windy (pic
5) and then wind became stronger and sun appeared amongst the clouds.
I trolled and rowed, rowed and trolled without any luck. When spoon-bait
clutched snag I had rowed to snag and pulled out spoon-bait. When I tried
to went to another bay I couldn't do that because of strong wind.
Therefore I landed to bank and continued to troll from that place.
First trolling presented me pike. It run away
from hook at the edge of water and I had to cast it ashore by boots. Then
I made a photo of pike (pic
6). Next trolling gave me another snag, which was three meters from
bank. I run along bank and pulled by spinning. Metal fishing line broke
and I had to set another spoon-bait and continued trolling. Soon I
"caught" new snag near bank and snag clutched spoon-bait firmly.
I put spinning into boat and float to snag. I was wrong and set brake on
spool on. Wind carried boat away and I couldn't to pull bait. Then I put
spinning at head of boat and began to row. When I stopped to row and
decided to look how I should pull bait. And wind blew strong at that
moment, boat run down and something knocked me to elbow. I turned my head
and had seen my spinning, which was fitting into water like rocket.
Firstly I felt upset and then laughed. Then I landed again and take the
old short spinning which was into boat. I set another spool on it and
trolled a little again. When sun appeared through the clouds I became to
make photos of yellow birch above bank (pic
7), yellow-green forest on island (pic
8), waves beaten at bank (pic
9, pic 10) and boulder with
traces of water levels (pic
11). Then I sat on the stone and admired lake, sky and banks. My
friends were soon here and asked me if I lost again.
When we returned to cabin Nikolay made my photo with trophy
into boat. Then we were preparing caught fish and made supper. Stove in
cabin was very heated that I had to take off a part of wear three time per
night. We decided to return home at the morning because wind was strong
all days.
We started home early at the morning (pic
12). I was again with Vladimir in his boat. Engine died away when we reached
the middle of open space . Vladimir became to repair the engine and I
rowed trying to keep boat against wind. Wind blew stronger and stronger.
Engine died away next time when we were near the passage from one open
space to another one. Vladimir was repairing engine again and I kept boat
again. Vladimir said a few strong language to me when boat knocked stones.
I don't know what was the cause of bad working of engine but I spent rest
part of way home working as pump. I lay on the bottom of boat and
pushed rubber "pear" on gas hose from tank to engine. We saw silver
grass when we returned home. There was frost during the night. But we
didn't see that at the lake because it gave its warmth as giant
accumulator.
I also could drive to Kandalaksha town that day and
bought there new spinning and spoon-baits instead lost ones.
Part 4. Karelia.
My way to Karelia started from dam
at Zelenoborsky (pic 1) and Kniazhaya
guba of Kandalaksha bay (pic
2) at 7:30 a.m. Rain fell again. It was fine and boring. Sky was
gray, asphalt was black and forest along road became brown behind the rain
wall. I reached the Polar Circle where faded blue obelisk stood at the
just repaired road (pic
3). I didn't come to obelisk because of edges of road were dirty from
recent repair and long rain - workers continued repair a little further.
There were different road-rollers and another technique there.
I noticed tied ribbons on the trees. I observed
such view many times - in Moscow region, at Crimea and another places. I
heard about that tradition long time ago. I know where such action
is appropriate. It is a Muslim custom and such place had name "aziz".
There is a solemn place, where a Muslim can deliver from sins. There must
be spring there and tree or group of trees. Muslim must fast and
pray there during all day. Then Muslim can tie ribbon (or part of his
wear) to the branch of tree. I am never able to understand our people
(which aren't Muslims and often just atheists) who tie ribbons and make
inscriptions anywhere they could reach.
I met some road swindlers near turn to Loukhy
settlement. I also met them or their colleagues during my way to
Zelenoborsky. Those fellows stop cars at the road and asked help.
Sometimes gas ends in their car, sometimes they need engine oil, sometimes
they have spent all their money for car repair. Anyway, they offer to
change "golden" finger-rings to gas (oil, etc). Of course, they
tell that cost of "golden" finger-ring is more large than price
of gas that you give them.And, therefore, you must give them money.
I learned about that from Internet before trip. And all three times I went
off from those swindlers. But if they act on the road - there are some
people exist who buy this "gold". There are too many people here
in Russia who want pay five cents for one dollar...
Then my way was easy. My little car run fast under
drizzling rain and gray sky. I only turned to ground road to have a meal
and drink coffee. Next turn was when I decided to have a look on Kem'
town. I wanted to look at mooring from which boats start to Solovetskie
Islands. There were about twenty kilometers from highway to town. I has a
look to Hydro Power Station (pic
4), stony bank of river Kem' with orange forest on it
(pic 5). Then I stopped at the
memorial dedicated for heroes of Russian Civil war (pic
6) and obelisk with town name and its founded date (pic
7).
After I reached Kem' I passed railway station then
drove along soggy streets and arrived to one of outskirts (pic
8). I met there a man who agreed to be my guide and show me mooring.
It was far from town at settlement Rabocheostrovsk. We drove directly to
old cargo mooring, which was like skeleton of ancient monster I saw
sometime at museum. It was strange to see new wooden small church behind
that mooring (pic 9). My guide told me
that it was worse a couple years ago but some cargo ships start their road
to White Sea (pic
10) from this mooring. My guide had a couple of strong drinks before
but it was not enough for him. And he got tired telling me. Therefore he
asked me about... Of course, I had and he drank about 100g of spirits
(96%) from enameled cup and ate sandwich and cucumber. Then he could
continue his tale about modern life in Kem'. Life is very hard there and
at the thousands of such towns and settlements in Russia. Shortage
of job, little salaries with high prices, pillage of recourses and
any values by crime together with local authorities. I drove to Kem' and
parted with my guide near alcohol shop.
I continued my way to Girvas soon. There were only gray
color of sky, drizzling rain, dark water of rivers and their quaint names
(name Five, as example) (pic
11). Only yellow leafs floated with rivers' flow and red-orange spots
of autumn trees on the banks (pic
12) contrasted with gray colors around. I reached Girvas at 6 p.m. and
was met, fed and placed into single room. I planed to spend five days
there.
I went all over nearest roads with host and he showed
me lakes
(pic 13) where I could troll pikes.
Also we visited Girvas dam and waterfall Poor-porog (pic
14). Day was sunny and I started to troll to one of lakes by car. I
drove till the moss swamp and went further on foot. Nearby bank was low
and lake wasn't deep there. I could see tops of snags over the water and
brushes of reeds. Banks rose further and transformed to small cliffs with
birches and pines on them. Autumn landscape looked nice under the sun
light and I often stopped and admired that splendor (pic
15). There were bright-red cowberries and overripe berries
of blueberry (pic
16) around the path along bank. I changed places and spoon-baits
and trolled near snags and islands of reeds. Sometimes I stopped and made
photos. But it was not any result. However, I caught my pike. I did that
at the low edge of lake during last troll. It clutched big yellow
spoon-bait at the reeds and I dragged it on low moss bank (pic
18). Then I went to another lakes and spent there rest part of
the day. It was splendid day and I enjoyed with autumn warmth and bright
colors of autumn. When I re3turned home the host told me about fish "palie".
Big lake was named in honor of that fish. It is little fish from salmon
class. It has red body with little black spots. Name "palie"
means somewhat about "burnt". This fish had disappeared when
Hydro Power Station was built in Girvas and water from swamps went to
Palie Lake. But they try to restore this fish in the village Sviatnavolok
at the special ponds which like ones I saw near dam in Girvas (pic
19).
I started to waterfall Kivach next day early at the morning.
I made some photos there at 2002 and gave them to Aleksey Agaltsov who put
part of those photos on his site "К2000".
Some people said me that better photos would made at the morning. So, I
started early that time. It was not too far from Girvas to Kivach. And I
was soon near the gate. I was first visitor that day. I made photos during
two hours moving from one place to another. You can see those photos here.
I also made photo of river Suna behind waterfall (pic
20), had a conversation with souvenirs' seller (pic
21) and learnt at the museum (pic
22) that best photos of Kivach are made at midday. I spent long time
in museum seeing nice photographs of local artist-photographer.
On the way to Girvas I passed villages Berezovka and
Koncheozero. I met weasel here who came to road from forest. It didn't
fear car but run away quickly when I got off from car trying make a photo.
Then I reached Martsialnye Vody (pic
23) - first Russian spa founded by Russian tsar Peter Great at 1709. I
see sanatorium above the road and visited springs with mineral water. I
met man here who bought island in Onezhskoe lake and organised the
tourists' camping there. He and his friend showed sightseeing to their
visitor from Pushkin town (Leningrad region). I didn't like taste of water
from springs (pic
24) - it was like to Moscow water-supply one with taste of chlorine.
Island owner told me that this water doesn't save long time and it is
better to drink it immediately. Then we went to museum together and learnt
about history of spa and chemical properties of water. I made a photo of
Peter Great (pic 25) there. At last,
I drove to Girvas.
Next day I started along old Murmansk road through the
villages Sviatnavolok, Elmus, Yustozero, Kumsa to town Medvezhegorsk (bear
mountains). It was a turn to village Lindozero not far from Girvas. I
liked sign (pic
26). It says: "Atention! The direction to Lindozero is
signed with direction signs". The road to Lindozero is ground one.
There was a good road from Girvas to Kumsa - about 70km
of asphalt road without big holes and with very little traffic. That
narrow road is not straight but it winds through the forest and passes
along lakes and abruptly runs away from them. I remembered new
wooden church on the lake shore (pic
27) in Elmus. Near village Yustozero I turned on road to Porosozero.
There was metal road which run through the beautiful places: red and
yellow forest and pines under blue sky (pic
28), red swamps (pic
29), elegant wooden bridges (pic
30) over scenic small rivers (pic
31), countless shallow lakes (pic
32). All that I had seen on 33km between Ustozero and Sovdozero (pic
33). That metal road had one interesting feature. On the top of each
hill was stone which stuck up just car front. Every time I feared that it
knocked bottom of transmission. But never had happened. There were not
many cars and I liked this part of trip. I turned back from Sovdozero and
was droving with stops to admire views of nature.
Then sky was becoming gray with clouds and wind became
to blow. I turned to asphalt road towards Medvezhegorsk Narrow strip of
road, turns, raises and slopes (pic
34), bridges above narrow brooks (pic
35), forests and sometimes lakes (pic
36). I took fellow traveler and we talked about life in Karelia.
People live here despite the fact that poverty and shortage of job had
place there. My fellow traveler left me when we reached Medvezhegorsk
(pic 37). I visited shops there and
had bought some presents for my hosts, have a meal in cafe on the
cross-roads and returned to Girvas. My start back to home was fixed
on the next evening. I didn't know then that ordinary trip would be
another adventure for me. Last day I spent walking all along environs of
Girvas under drizzling rain and made own portrait amongst boulders of
Poor-porog (pic
38).
Part
Have a look on the map of Northwest part of Russia.
Find there republic Karelia and then its capital - town Petrozavodsk. I
started my way home at settlement Girvas, which is situated in
seventy kilometers up North from Petrozavodsk It was Friday evening - 9
p.m.. It was dark and rain
drizzled from sky. I shall have to drive about 1300 km to reach
home.
When I had driven about 100 km I heard a knock at
bottom of my car. I thought firstly that was a stone, which stayed on the
road after repair. But when such knock repeated I stopped and went away to
see what is happened. Of course, I found nothing. Because it was too
dark and rain continued to drizzle I didn't do anything else besides
onceover and continued my way. I had lost about forty five minutes
waiting when road repairmen allow to drive through the repaired part of
the road. That delay had place not far from town Olonets. Knocks were
continued from time to time and I knew exactly that problem was with right
rear wheel. I decided to continue trip till morning and to seek garage
after working day will start. Also I decided to rely on luck and havens.
Fortunately, knock had place rarely.
I passed town Lodeinoe Pole at two a.m. and then reached town
Podporozhie where filled up my car at 2:30 a.m. At five past three I heard
crackle then car had glided away and after that I understood car hadn't
brakes. I stopped at the edge of metal road and went away from car
into deep dark with slightly drizzled rain. When I took away right
rear wheel and remove the brake's cover I had seen the medley of brake
parts which was poured with brake's liquid. Of course, I knew what was
needed to do but I had not any idea HOW to do that. It was very dark and
forest murmured around. No car drove along that road at that night time.
And it seemed that were never cities and towns and only I and
my broken car left amongst the wild nature.
Two men who drove Russian jeep "NIVA" helped
me to solve that problem with hammer and nipper at 5 a.m. They cut brake
pipe and pressed it with hammer. I filled up brake's liquid, drank coffee
and resume my trip. It was six o'clock and sky had become gray. I
drove along wide metal road and began to fall asleep. I stopped car at the
edge of road but front wheel fell into ditch. I tried to get out on the
road with reverse but rear wheel fell into ditch too. I took spade and
started to dig. After digging I tried to get out once more. It was wrong
attempt too. The car tipped and can fall on the side. I took
tow-line and stood near my car. Two cars passed me but timber lorry
stopped soon and helped me to return on the right way. I thanked my savior
with good words and alcohol. Of course, I didn't already want to
sleep.
Though brakes worked badly I drove faster and faster
and had learnt how to brake my car. It was needed to push pedal as
strongly as it was possible and turn steering wheel a little to the left.
After releasing pedal turn steering wheel to the right. It was not very
difficult. Thank havens there were not many cars on the road that day.
The first garage where I could get a help was in
settlement Belousovo. They hadn't necessary components to repair my car
there. Therefore mechanic soldered part of the cut pipe and tried to
settle brakes. Then this work did two mechanics. Then foreman joined them.
They worked about two hours but brakes refused to work properly. As result
- they didn't take any money from me. They said because work didn't
complete. (pic. 39) I thanked them
and continued my trip.
Good asphalt road changed metal one soon. I wanted to
arrive home the same day and drove as usual, i.e. had speed about 100-110
km/h. Only single difference was that I had to keep long distance between
my car and car that drove ahead of me. And I spent too much time to choose
time and place for outrunning.
I arrived town Vologda after three o'clock and drive at
the by-pass road. When the town had ended I came to big car repair garage.
Foreman said me that if I want to repair my car I must go to the shop
through the town and buy there some components. I was afraid to drive
through the unknown town without brakes. Also it was enough late and
garage can be closed before my returning there. Because it was not too
hard traffic I decided to drive home.
Next big town on my way was Yaroslavl. The distance
between Vologda and Yaroslavl was about 200 km. I spent two hours and
twenty minutes to reach Yroslavl. But next twenty kilometers I overcame in
about an hour. Though road has a name "by-pass road" most part
of it runs through the town. There is the splendid bridge across river
Volga just on that road. But traffic was too hard there and I looked only
the bus was going ahead me. Sometimes I drove with speed no more than
10-15 km/h. I passed Yaroslavl when was getting dark but next part of way
home didn't very difficult.
It needed three hours and a half to reach home. I was
lucky and returned home even without brakes. My trip and my adventures had
successfully ended. Way home took twenty six hours. I drove 1284 kilometers
totally and 895 kilometers without brakes. My vacations turned out well!