Reports
Opoki.
"Если я чего решил - я выпью
обязательно"
There was my third attempt
to reach Opoki - interesting place at river Sukhona in seventy
kilometers from Velikiy Ustug town. It was third summer
since my first attempt. First attempt was in 2012 and I was
stopped in 100 kilometers from Opoki - my car's front axle was
damaged. I couldn't to visit Velikiy Ustug town. Second attempt
had place a year later - in June 2013. I tried to reach Opoki
from Velikiy Ustug town. That time I was stopped in 10
kilometers - damaged bridge across river Strelnia which had
become an insurmountable obstacle to reach there. This summer I
drove to Velikiy Ustug through Vologda town. This attempt was
successful!
You can reach Velikiy Ustug from Moscow by two ways. One way lays
through Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Nikolsk. Another one - through
Vologda - Totma. I tried to use first way in 2013 because of
that way was shorter. But road was terrible
and I had to spend there more time that it was planned.
This time I chose way number two.
Road from Moscow to Vologda was fine. Only a couple of road repairs didn't hinder to
drive and it was spent about 14 hours
for my way to Ustug. But one
hour and a half I spent visiting Opoki. Of course, only for
recognizing that place.
How to reach Opoki? You turn from asphalt main road to metal
one and drive along it about a 1.5 km. Turn
is indicated by big sign near road. Then you can leave you
car at the big ground square and go
hike or continue to
drive about 500 meters along
ground road, which squirms between the trees in the forest.
And then you will see a wonder!
Coastal cliffs of Sukhona
river reach a height of 60 meters or more, and their slopes very
abrupt and they are nearly 70 degrees. Permian rocks are exposed
here - the last geological period of the Paleozoic era. These
rocks have an age more than 250 million years!
After we were having a little
walk in Opoki we had written the mobile number of boatman which
was on the shield. And then drove to the hotel in Ustug.
The funny thing happened
during our supper in the hotel. Waitress confused and brought us
dumplings instead fish we ordered. Dishes were similar and our
fish was yet eating another visitor. At the morning we returned to Opoki and had gotten a boat. Mostly boatmen to carry tourists
only to fountain which is situated on the opposite shore. But I
asked our boatman
to show us rapids and little
waterfall. He agreed and firstly delivered us to the fountain.
Then he asked to make a call to him when we would ready to
continue our cruise. And we went to the fountain. Five minutes
later motorboat delivered us to the opposite shore downstream.
There we had to go hike along shore because river was too
shallow in front of fountain.
Firstly we heard noise of
water stream and then we had seen small stair-step waterfall
and upper part of fountain.
Then after dozen steps up the
slope and we came to the square. Fountain was in the middle of
that square. It was a beautiful sight. Unfortunately, I couldn't
saw a rainbow in the fountain drops - may be sun was not in the
needed place in the sky.
We spent about an hour near
fountain and then called the boatman. He arrived very soon and
we went upstream Sukhona. Boatman talked us about this place -
ruined village on the shore, rapids and waterfall. Also he
talked about constructing dam in the middle of 1940th, which was
built by prisoners in 1947. But spring flood broken all
constructions in the same year. Now you can see only remains of
the dam on the shore.
Then we reached place where
was waterfall. Waterfall is situated at the
same shore as the fountain in the triangle break into the Permian
wall (you can see that place at the second photo of this report).
About hundred steps along stony shore and we had seen falling
water. It flowed by thin streams along layered wall to the tiny
lake.
Then small creek carried the
water with white foam into river Sukhona. After visiting
waterfall we returned to pier and said goodbye boatman and
started to watch ruins of the dam and memory cross. We drove to
the shore of Sukhona opposite the waterfall and I went through
little swamp towards dam. Only a little part remained from
constructions.
And how many lives and how
much labor were spent there! Last place we visited in Opoki was
the memory cross.
I tried to drove closer to it
and suddenly front wheel fell into hole which was hidden by
grass. Firstly I couldn't to get out from hole and got off the
car. Well, left rear wheel was in a half of meter above the
ground. I was a little confused with this but then I remembered
about differential lock. In two minutes my car crawled from hole
without some problems. We went to cross, watched the rapids from
high shore
and began our returning to
Ustug. My dream had come true, at last!
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